7/28/26

Birni Gazargamo: A Central Sudanic Metropolis

 An aerial view of Birni Gazargamo in Graham's Connah's "The Daima Sequence and the Prehistoric Chronology of the Lake Chad Region of Nigeria"

What was Birni Gazargamo? What was the city actually like, from its origins in c. 1472 to its fall in c.1808? The city was described as vast, surrounded by fertile lands, featured impressive walls and included a palace complex with fired brick walls. Unsurprisingly, the city also attracted traders and Islamic scholars. How did the Sayfawa dynasty, beginning with Ali b. Dunama, transform Gazargamo into this African metropolis of economic power? The combination of skilled leadership, effective security and control of trade routes, textile production, livestock rearing, and Islamic scholarship aided its development. Likewise, state-oriented migration fostered the rapid development of a metropolitan region that may have reached a population of 200,000. This brief article will explore this process by first tracing the sources on Gazargamo’s origins. Then, we shall briefly discuss aspects of the city and its surrounding districts. This will reveal that Birni Gazargamo was an exceptional Sudanic city that grew into an economic and political powerhouse under the Sayfawa dynasty.

The Origins of Birni Gazargamo

The early period of Birni Gazargamo's existence as a city is ambiguous. Traditions previously examined indicate "Sao" presence in the area.[1] Either through a ruse and violence, or gradual coexistence shaped by economic exchange, the followers of the Banu Sayf were able to establish a foothold in the region. Since the Sao Gafata were still living near Gazargamo by the reign of Idris b. Ali (r. 1564-1596), one can presume that Gazargamo was built in a part of the Komadugu-Yobe area inhabited by earlier Chadic peoples. Yet the Bedde and Tuareg may have also played a role.

The traditions on the creation of Birni Gazargamo, the capital of the Sayfawa dynasty in Borno established during the reign of Ali b. Dunama (r. 1465-1497), perhaps begun in 1472, provide interesting glimpses of the region at the time of Sayfawa consolidation in Borno. According to oral traditions collected from Borno among the Kanuri and Bade as well as traditions that were recorded in the “chronicles” of Agadez, the Sao, Bedde, Tuareg and Sayfawa interacted in the choosing of this site for the royal capital. Parsing through the traditions and written sources raises significant questions about the nature of Sayfawa-Sao relations in the 15th century. Furthermore, the possible participation of the Imikitan Tuareg and the Bade (or Bedde) in this process is one that becomes increasingly plausible with a thorough examination of the evidence, both textual and oral. In short, the process of the establishment of the royal capital was probably an effort that involved both the Sao, Kanuri, Tuareg, and Bade.

Let's begin with the local Borno traditions. According to traditions collected by Landeroin during the Tilho Mission, Ali b. Dunama attacked the Sao chief at Gambaru (traditions suggest Ali b. Dunama tried to establish a capital there first), where he was later defeated. However, the mai was able to obtain permission to settle in the region and trade with the Sao. This tradition suggests the Sayfawa were not strong enough to dislodge the Sao (Sao Gafata?) from the region of Gazargamo, but were able to establish a presence through trade. Another tradition mentions the use of economic entanglements and debts for securing the land. However, the account stresses the abundant merchandise of the Sayfawa and how they were able to purchase land with it, gradually establishing homes with the permission of the Sao leader, Dala Gomami.[2] Unfortunately for the Sao leader, he purchased too many goods from the Sayfawa's followers, and being unable to pay the debt, decided to leave the area to them. This was because the Sayfawa planned to use the outstanding debts as a justification for war. Intriguingly, this plan of selling on credit to the Sao chief was supported by his brother, suggesting that conflicts within the Sao political elites created an opening for Sayfawa domination of the future capital, Birni Gazargamo.

Despite the Sao leader leaving the area to those he was indebted to, many Sao remained in the region. Since the followers of the Sayfawa (or Toubbas, as recorded in the traditions by Landeroin) used henna, they tricked the Sao who wanted to imitate this usage of henna into tying up their hands. This facilitated the Sayfawa attack on the remaining Sao, who were defeated and fled. According to tradition, this alleged attack took place in 1452.[3] This would have been during the reign of Ghadji b. Imata, according to Lange's chronology. Naturally, one could ask if the specific year given in the traditions is really reliable, although it is certainly plausible. If taken at face value, one may surmise that the area around Gambaru was first seized during the reign of Ghadji b. Imata, but Ali b. Dunama was the one who finally established the capital on a more permanent basis at Gazargamo. As for earlier military conflicts with the Sao, the Diwan records multiple Sayfawa rulers who died in conflict with the "Sao" in the 1300s: 

1. 1335-1339: Reign of Salma b. Abdallah of Kanem, died in war with Sao

2. 1339-1340: Reign of Kuri le jeune in Kanem, died in war with Sao

3. 1340-1341: Reign of Kuri l'aîné (the elder) of Kanem, died in war with Sao

4. 1341-1342: Reign of Muhammad b. Abdallah of Kanem, died in war with Sao

 

These aforementioned conflicts took place over a century before the c.1452 victory of the Sayfawa in Gambaru. Of course, one cannot say these conflicts were with the same group of Sao, but it would be interesting if the tradition recorded by Landeroin might be alluding to the same area. If so, the Sayfawa had already had their eyes on the Gambaru region long before the mid-15th century. Only after a century of consolidation did the final subjugation of the area took place. In fact, if the Diwan is reliable, conflict among claimants to the throne erupted between Uthman b. Kaday and Ali b. Dunama.[4] This may have prevented Ali b. Dunama from finally shifting the capital to Birni Gazargamo or at least stalled it. Just like the Sao of the region, divisions between the Idrisid and Dawudid branches of the Sayfawa were probably exploited by others to protect their autonomy or for plunder.

Lending some credence to the traditions cited by Landeroin are the traditions collected by H.R. Palmer. Palmer, who published traditions and manuscripts found in Borno, repeated a very similar story of a ruse involving henna to defeat the Sao. In the second volume of Sudanese Memoirs, Palmer included a narrative entitled "The So Dala N'Gumami." The name of this Sao leader is clearly the same as the Dala Gomami recorded by Landeroin, but Palmer provides the name of his city: Gagi Dibun. In Palmer's version, however, it is unquestionably clear that it was Ali Gaji Zeinami, or Ali b. Dunama, who orchestrated the trick using henna. A number of other details emerge in Palmer's variant of the tradition. So Dala N'Gumami lived as a friend or ally of the Sayfawa, whereas the version of Landeroin suggests he fled the region or left since he could not pay his debts. Interestingly, there is a reference to the Sao leader going to Kano and the impatience of the Sayfawa to build a mosque.[5] This would suggest long-standing ties to Kano and some familiarity with Islam on the part of So Dala N'Gumami. Considering the penetration of Islam in Kano by the 1300s and the presence of Muslims from Kanem in Borno by the 1200s, this is not surprising, even if the Sao leadership had no interest in converting to Islam. After all, according to the Diwan, rulers like Dunama Dibalemi were said to have died at Zamtam, an area not too far from the future site of Gazargamo in c.1248. A 14th century mai, Ibrahim b. Bir, was buried at Diskama, a locality perhaps to be identified as Damasak, a Sao Gafata stronghold in the 16th century.[6]

The other traditions recorded by Palmer are difficult to interpret. One of them, "The Bade Tribes" in Sudanese Memoirs, suggests the Bade had followed the Sayfawa from Njimi to Wudi, an earlier capital in Borno. At the same time, the Bade were already living in Arege 4 years before the establishment of Gazargamo as the capital. If true, this would suggest the Bade were living near the future capital of Borno by the 1450s or 1460s. Furthermore, the discovery of the site of Gazargamo allegedly took place when residents of Wudi pursued an escaped cheetah and found the area of Gazargamo to be much more fertile and abundant than Wudi. But what is somewhat remarkable here is a convergence with the traditions recorded by Landeroin about a chief or leader of servile origin appointed by Ali b. Dunama. According to Palmer, three brothers named Makinta Baro, Makinta Yatku and Kaloma Arge were chiefs of an early town called Gamgar. Palmer wrote, "These men were brothers, they came from Wudi to Borno.”[7] If by Borno the capital is meant, perhaps one of these three men named Makinta was the individual also named Mankinta who served Ali b. Dunama as a leader of servile origin at Wudi.[8] If these traditions are correct, some of the Bedde or Bade may have been incorporated into the administration of Borno as administrators of servile origin. The Badi may have already been alluded to as western neighbors of the areas of Borno under Sayfawa rule during the time of Dunama Dibalemi.[9] The Badi also lived on or near the northern shores of Lake Chad and would have been in a position to know of the future site of Gazargamo.

The other group said to have played a role in the eventual site of the Sayfawa capital in Borno are the Amakita or Imikitan Tuareg. The tradition of their presence in Kanem and Borno can be found in the Agades Chronicles as well as Muhammad Bello's account of the region. According to Bello, the Sokoto caliph writing in the early 19th century (probably with access to manuscripts or at least oral traditions from Ayar), the ancestors of the Sayfawa found their "Berber" kinsmen ruling over a group called Amakita in Kanem. In his chapter on Ayar, Bello later lists the Amakita as one of the original five clans in that region.[10] As for the more detailed account found in the Agades Chronicles, Yves Urvoy's translation of Manuscript B includes the full tradition of the Amikitane Tuareg guiding the mai to the site of Birni Gazargamo. According to this source, the tribe of the Sandals (or Amakita) refused to accept the nomination of Ilisaouane as king of Ayar. However, in the ensuing war, they were defeated and the grand part of their population left Ayar. However, after driving “black” populations to the south and seizing their lands, the lack of a sultan drove them to migrate to Kanem. Perhaps this is a reference to the original need for a sultan of Ayar in the first place, to restore order or act as a mediator between the Tuareg clans and facilitate trade. It was in Kanem where the Saoutantane tribe of the Amakita eventually guided the mai to the site of Birni Gazargamo. In exchange for a gift, a member of this group promised to guide the sultan of Kanem to the site, which his tribe knew of since they passed the cold season in the area of the future Birni Gazargamo. The same source also mentions that this tribe had been raided by the sultan of Borno, too. One wonders here if the traditions are recalling moments of civil war between the different branches of the Sayfawa dynasty, which perhaps at different times they raided the Tuareg, though tradition recalls Ali b. Dunama raiding Ayar.[11] Yet, despite guiding the sultan of Kanem to the site of Birni Gazargamo and allegedly contributing to the construction of the wall, this Tuareg group requested permission to return to Ayar, although agreeing to maintain peace with Borno.[12]

How does one make sense of this Tuareg tradition of showing the Sayfawa the site for the capital of Borno? According to Djibo Hamani, the Immikitan Tuareg would have started to leave Ayar sometime after 1429/1430 when Alhaji Alisau became sultan of Ayar and reigned approximately 20 years.[13] This would mean that the Immikitan likely began an exodus to the south/southeast in the 1430s and 1440s, likely leading to more contact (and perhaps, conflict through raiding) with Borno. If the name "Amakita" is a reference to the amenokal of the Immikitan, the Amiki, then what might be recorded in this tradition is the submission of the Immikitan Tuareg to the Sayfawa dynasty in the 1400s. One also wonders if the "Makinta" and Mankita" remembered in the other traditions could be alluding to the same individual bearing this title. According to Nachtigal's Sahara and Sudan, the title referred to an enslaved person responsible for managing stores of wood, charcoal, dried fish, vegetables, and other crops associated with the palace kitchen. The bearer of the title would have received villages under their control along the Komadugu-Yobe region.[14] A thorough examination of this word in Bade, Kanuri, and Tamasheq languages might clarify the matter, but it does raise some questions about a possible explanation for the similar-sounding words of Amakita, Makinta, and Mankita. Nonetheless, the name Makinkta as a title still exists in Borno for designating the head of a ward. Regardless of this speculative train of thought, there are traditions in both Ayar and in Borno that allude to conflict between the two during this time. The raids experienced by the Saoutantante could have taken place during this same period in the mid-15th century, although their origin likely began in the 14th century and earlier centuries. Indeed, Hamani cites traditions collected from the Kutuba of the court at Agadez that alluded to frequent raids from Borno to seize women and frighten the Tuareg. Other traditions record the galadima of Borno coming to Ayar to receive a tribute.[15] In addition, the Kano Chronicle records one attack by Borno against Ayar that, in Palmer's chronology, must have taken place between c.1438-1452. Although the attack failed due to the lack of adequate water supplies, it does support the above traditions of Borno attacks and raids in the 15th century, as well as an extension of Borno's influence in lands to its west.[16] When one recalls that the Immikitan would have likely been in Damergu and Kutus at this time, they could have become vassals or tributaries of Borno as a Tuareg group in closer proximity. As for Borno traditions, a Tuareg attack on a Magumi village triggered Ali b. Dunama's attacks against the Tuareg. Perhaps the tale of his construction of an artificial pond at Fachi for additional sources of water and fish to supply his troops to attack them fits this historical narrative.[17]

Unfortunately, reconciling these traditions on the origin of Birni Gazargamo remains incredibly difficult. On the one hand, Palmer and Landeroin recorded traditions that overlap and suggest a long period of coexistence and exchange between the Sayfawa and the Sao (Gafata?) in the period before Ali b. Dunama established the capital. But on the other hand, these same traditions may be compressing events that developed over 2 centuries or more. Both also allude to a ruse or trick, which may be a tradition designed to mask the fact that the Muslims from Kanem lacked enough outright power or numbers to seize the land. To what extent the Bade or Bedde and Tuareg contributed to this is unclear. The Bade traditions and Landeroin mention someone named Mankinta or Makinta, with the latter claiming he was left in charge of Wudi (Garoumele) during one of Ali b. Dunama's expeditions against the Tuareg. Above we speculated that Makinta bears a superficial resemblance to Amakita, a group remembered in Ayar tradition and by Muhammad Bello for once living in Kanem, perhaps broadly conceived to include parts of Borno. It seems unlikely that an Immikitan Tuareg captive would have been left in charge of Wudi during one of Ali b. Dunama's campaigns, but it is possible that this Tuareg group may have seasonally visited the area around Birni Gazargamo for pasturage. We find it unlikely that they would have aided in the construction of the walls of Gazargamo, but it is possible that they contributed to the choosing of the site as capital. As to what happened to the Sao in the region, the closest ones to Gazargamo a century later appear to have been the Gafata, who were very much a threat to Birni Gazargamo. The question of their possible relationship to earlier moments of Sayfawa-Sao conflict preceding the establishment of Gazargamo remains an open question.

The Early Period of Birni Gazargamo

As for early Gazargamo itself, the origins of its fortifications are unclear. Heinrich Barth attributed its walls to mai Dunama b. Muhammad.[18] Another source, a list in verse of the Sayfawa rulers in H.R. Palmer's Bornu Sahara and Sudan, attributes the wall of Gazargamo to Ali b. Dunama.[19] Since Gazargamo was near non-Muslim groups who occasionally rebelled, one would assume Gazargamo was likely fortified or at least walled at its inception. However, it is possible that Dunama b. Muhammad strengthened the walls of the capital or enlarged them during his reign.

As for other developments in Gazargamo at this early stage, the reign of Ali b. Dunama presents some clues. Since he brought peace to the internal conflicts of the Sayfawa rulers and was able to make the hajj in c.1484, one may presume the conditions within Borno were stable. Conditions were at least secure enough for the ruler to leave his domains for an extended period of time. The location was also well-chosen. If the traditions of the Imikitan Tuareg are any indication, the region around Gazargamo was favorable for herding.[20] The city's location near two rivers, access to river transport, salines, and fertile soil meant that Ali b. Dunama chose an excellent spot for the capital. With the consolidation of a Sayfawa capital, Ali b. Dunama and his successors could also support a larger court, invite Islamic scholars, and attract trans-Saharan and regional traders.

Ruins from one of the fired-brick walls at the palace of Birni Gazargamo. Photo in Connah's Three Thousand Years in Africa: Man and His Environment in the Lake Chad region of Nigeria.

 

Unfortunately, the best-known source on the early period of Gazargamo is Leo Africanus. Since it is unclear if Africanus actually visited Borno, one must carefully interpret his writing on the powerful kingdom. To Africanus, the king of Borno lived in a large village. Unlike his description of other cities in Sudanic Africa, one gets the sense here that Gazargamo was still a small town. But, since Africanus's description of Borno is ambiguous and problematic, it is possible that his information is outdated or highly inaccurate. For instance, it repeats outdated information derived from classical antiquity about the Garamantes and applies it to Borno.[21] For these reasons, it is difficult to use as a source for early Gazargamo.

By the late 1500s, Anania described it as "C'est une immense ville avec beaucoup de trafic...".[22] Ahmad b. Furtu, the chronicler of Idris b. Ali's campaigns in Borno and Kanem, frequently described Gazargamo as the "great city.”[23] Likewise, the construction of brick or clay mosques in Gazargamo allegedly began under the reign of this mai.[24] If the old mosques built of stalks were no longer acceptable, one can assume the capital was attaining a more metropolitan and impressive infrastructure. It is tantalizing to ponder if the appearance of the impressive brick walls of the palace complex in the center of Birni Gazargamo date to the period of Idris b. Ali or his immediate predecessors. In addition, Anania describes a city that was clearly a major market center with many Turks and North Africans moving to the kingdom. Borno provided captives for trans-Saharan trade, but the leather industry was also important as a commodity traded to the Fezzan.[25] If the sources from the 16th century are any indication, it is clear that the city of Gazargamo grew into a major urban area by the second half of the 16th century. In fact, Muhammad Nur Alkali speculated that the city and the connected chain of settlements near it covered around 100 square kilometers by the second half of the 1500s.[26]

Birni Gazargamo Under Sayfawa Consolidation

By the 17th century, Birni Gazargamo's status as an impressive metropolis was clearly established. According to the enslaved French surgeon who wrote about Borno based on his access to sources from the sultanate and interviews with people who traveled there or knew the kingdom, the royal capital was described as a vast city with beautiful houses.[27] From this description, the city was probably already encompassing a huge area with houses, likely rectangular and made of clay or earth, which North Africans would have been familiar with in the Wasiliram quarter near the palace. Indeed, according to Ali Eisami, the wasiliram quarter for "whites" from North Africa was near the residence of the king.[28] This means the North Africans who stayed in the capital likely saw the palace complex with its impressive, fired brick walls and probably stayed in homes in a rectangular shape with courtyards. Besides the city's reputation as an enormous city, Gazargamo was threatened by foreign attack in the 17th century. For instance, in c.1667, the capital was threatened by the Tuareg of Air, invited by rebels opposed to Ali b. Umar (r. 1639-1677), who was able to defeat them.[29] Jukun tradition similarly recalls an attack by Kwararafa on Gazargamo that was only repelled when the Borno forces convinced the Tuareg to help them defeat the southern pagans.[30] These accounts undeniably illustrate Gazargamo was a walled city. Its imposing defenses made besieging it a difficult enterprise.

Part of the palace wall in Birni Gazargamo. Photo from Connah's in Graham's Connah's "The Daima Sequence and the Prehistoric Chronology of the Lake Chad Region of Nigeria."

 

Moreover, additional sources from the time of Ali b. Umar provide details on the capital. Entitled, "An Account of Ngazargamu" in H.R. Palmer's "Two Sudanese Manuscripts of the Seventeenth Century," authorship of the manuscript is attributed to a Muhammad, also called Salih. The son of a Mallam named Isharku, the account is supposedly based on written histories of Birni Gazargamo. Although much of the account describes a Fulani scholar named Umr ibn Othman, it is interesting for highlighting the influence of cosmopolitan Muslim scholars in precolonial Borno. First, by calling attention to the hosting of this illustrious scholar by the zarma Muhammad Margimi, the account suggests that a "ward" of Gazargamo was associated with this dignitary of the royal court. Also significant, the renowned Fulani Muslim scholar was made an imam of the mosque by Ali b. Umar. Intriguingly, only 76 people prayed at this mosque associated with Ali b. Umar.[31] Was this the small mosque associated with the palace? Later on, the narrator of this source wrote that Gazargamo possessed 4 Friday mosques, each with 12,000 worshipers. As this figure is likely an extreme exaggeration, it is intriguing that a mosque of Ali b. Umar was only used by 76 people. Is this the mosque Barth believed only had 5 aisles?[32] Offering further evidence of the huge concentration of people in the area are the courtiers of the gumsu of the mai. She allegedly had 60 nobles, 40 slaves, and 20 men who commanded 1000 slaves each to fight for her. Even more extraordinary is the source's assertion that Gazargamo possessed 660 roads, cleared and widened.[33] This latter point is contradicted by descriptions of the city from the 18th century. According to these sources, Gazargamo lacked a regular layout, and streets besides a dendal were undermined by the houses placed in a seemingly "haphazard" manner. It is difficult to imagine Gazargamo could have had these many roads, particularly wide ones, given the lack of a grid-like pattern for streets. 

In spite of its obvious problems, the aforementioned account is suggestive and useful for understanding the city of Gazargamo. For instance, at least one dignitary had a quarter of the town associated with him, the zarma. The kaigama may have also had a large quarter assigned to him, including possible fired brick walls at his own palatial estate.[34] In addition, Pétis de la Croix's description of trans-Saharan trade from Tripoli to Borno in the late 17th century mentioned the caravan traders staying in Borno for 6 months.[35] If accurate, then a large number of people in Gazargamo were North African traders who resided in the capital's wasiliram for half the year. Bobboyi has also identified Garibaya, one of the Friday mosques of Gazargamo, as the probable mosque of Shaykh Hajrami, a prominent scholar of the capital.[36] Finally, a Kanuri praise song translated by J.R. Patterson in the 1920s may allude to a zerma, Ibrahim b. Margi, who was related to the zarma Muhammad Margimi. According to the praise song, he was of the Tura, a son of Margi.[37] It is worth noting that Nachtigal's understanding of this title in the Sayfawa court associates it with an administrative district on the Komadugu Yobe near Gazargamo. He was also in charge of the royal stables and personal security of the mai.[38] Last, but certainly not least, the inflated population figures for worshipers of the 4 Friday mosques could be an allusion to the use of an outdoor space to accommodate huge numbers of people. In the "Gazir" dialect of Kanuri spoken by Ali Eisami, dendal also meant place of prayer, or mosque.[39] Is it possible that large, outdoor streets or courtyards were used for prayer outside the principal mosques of the capital, likely constructed with brick or clay?

Kanuri house types, according to page 299 of Ronald Cohen's The Structure of Kanuri Society.

 

Gazargamo During the Late Sayfawa Period

 

Heading into the 18th and 19th centuries, one finds more detailed descriptions of the royal capital. First, sometime in the late 17th or early 18th century, a Koyam shaykh named Umar lived in the city. According to traditions collected for the Tilho Mission, this Umar was the son of the founder of the second Kalumbardo settlement. After the death of his father by Tuareg bandits in 1677 or 1678, Umar led his followers as far as Noufe. He returned to Borno sometime during the reign of a "Hadji," and he received support from the mai for a community as Gaskeru. Interestingly, a later Koyam Shaykh, Ahmad, fled to Gazargamo after the Imakiten Tuareg sacked Gaskeru. He stayed in the area of Sandaram, a place where shaykh Umar was said to have prayed for water earlier (probably in the beginning of the 1700s). Popular tradition attributed the necessary rain for the creation of a pond or reservoir at Sandaram to this Umar.[40]

More detailed accounts of the city, besides miraculous stories of a Koyam shaykh praying for rain in the capital, reached more Europeans in this century. For example, the enslaved Abu Bekr es Siddik of Jamaica, briefly mentioned Birni Gazargamo as the birthplace of his mother. His mother, who appears to have been of Hausa origin, was born in the city of Borno to a father of Katsina and Borno.[41] His maternal ancestry points to deep ties between Katsina and Birni Gazargamo in the 18th century. Another writer, Brown, who heard of Borno from Darfur, heard that the capital was walled, had 4 gates in each cardinal direction, and was near a small river.[42] Johann von Einsidel also heard of Borno's capital from North Africa. There, he was informed the capital was called Mokouwi and had almost 10,000 houses.[43] This figure of 10,000 should not be taken literally but exemplifies how North Africans believed it was a bustling city. Even in the 18th century, Gazargamo may have been attacked by the Tuareg in 1765, when the Agadez sultan invaded.[44] 

By far, the best account of the city in the late 18th century can be found in the report of Lucas and Ledyard. Basing it on the experiences of North Africans or Fezzanis who had seen the capital of Borno, one assumes these informants resided in the wasiliram section of the city. This could explain why the houses of Gazargamo are described as rectangular with a court. A large Gazargamo house could reach the following dimensions: 20 feet long, 11 feet high, 11 feet in width. Outside the house, a yard with a wall was used to keep cattle. Clay or mud with stones as the mortar was used in the construction of houses. This resembles the earthen house Nachtigal lodged in during his time at Kukawa. Like the future Borno capital, Gazargamo's streets had an irregular layout with houses placed without rule. Nonetheless, the city was of a greater extent than Tripoli with mosques of brick and earth. The weekly market was held outside the walls of the city while the daily provisions market was held inside the walled town. This source even specifies children of a deceased mai stayed in the palace until they reached maturity.[45] Since some kings allegedly had hundreds of children, like mai Ali's 350 offspring, one can imagine the palace complex was full of people. Unsurprisingly, some of the features described here are similar to those of Kukawa in the late 19th century. There Nachtigal stayed in an earthen house, or soro. Like Kukawa, Gazargamo certainly presented signs of a division of labor in crafts and production for sectors like weaving. The dendal undoubtedly served as a center for public life, too.[46] In the case of Gazargamo with its oval shape, the dendal was said to run from the western gate to the palace.

A sketch by Heinrich Barth of the ruins of Gazargamo. Note the palace complex is still visible in the center.

 

Among the less reliable descriptions of Gazargamo are Abdallah of Affade. An informant to Ulrich Seetzen in Cairo, young Abdallah was exaggerating to the skeptical Seetzen. If one trusts Abdallah, Gazargamo used water from wells, which is plausible. But one must interpret carefully for any meaningful glimpse of Gazargamo when Abdallah tells us the principal mosque had 7 towers (minarets?) and the rich lived in elevated stone homes. Likewise, it certainly did not take more than 1 day to cross the city. Similarly, the sources do not suggest that a formal school at the principal mosque was funded by the mai. Study circles at mosques in the capital existed, but one gathers that Abdallah wanted Seetzen to believe Gazargamo had an equivalent of al-Azhar in Cairo. Abdallah's description of the mai distributing alms and feeding the poor through a cook he hired to prepare meals could be true.[47] After all, the Diwan described Ahmad (r. 1792-1808) as caring about the plight of the poor.[48] Whether or not one believes the mai held in captivity French slaves who produced cannons for him is another story.[49] Abdallah's exaggerated account of Borno's capital nonetheless features some accuracy, and even if not as sizable as Cairo, it was clearly a cosmopolitan city with a towering central palace and many earthen and brick edifices.

Additional accounts of Birni Gazargamo of the 18th century or early 19th are usually less detailed than the previously mentioned. Natives of Borno sold into slavery and transported to Saint-Domingue in the Caribbean referred to the ruler of Borno as rarely leaving his palace. They also alluded to the royal practice of placing goods in public places and using courtiers to arrest thieves and sell them into slavery.[50] Local historian Hamsatu Zanna Laminu, in her Scholarship in the History of Borno, cites traditions of Goni Musa Ngalbiyama of Gazargamo. His sangaya in the 1700s allegedly had 500 students.[51] Ali Eisami, a native of a village in the Gazir, or capital, province, told Koelle about the many districts in the area. Some of the names refer to the meiram (princess) and magira, hinting at possible towns or villages assigned in fiefs to members of the royal court.[52] Elsewhere, Eisami informed Koelle that Gazargamo had 7 gates with gatekeepers. A court near the king's residence was called the kandegei.[53] Eisami similarly told Koelle in Sierra Leone about words related to salt production, wrestling, streets, tailors, and schools (here the yard where a religious teacher took in students). It is probable that the words Eisami used are the same as those in Gazargamo since he was a native of the capital district. Eisami conspicuously did not include a word for chess, a game which the earlier account of Lucas and Ledyard described as a pastime of elites.[54] 

Considering Birni Gazargamo After the Fall

 

Next, we consider the city's fall. According to Barth, who interviewed an elder who witnessed the fall of Gazargamo, the mai fled the city through its eastern gate while the Fulbe entered via the west. The city was later retaken with the aid of al-Kanemi but abandoned as enemies affiliated with the Sokoto Caliphate overran the western provinces of Borno. In addition to the pillaging and abandonment of the city, bricks from its palace complex were reused or recycled for other construction outside the city, thereby depriving posterity of a clearer idea of what the palace complex looked like.

When visited in the 1820s by the Borno expedition of Denham, Clapperton and Oudney, Old Birni was said to have covered 5-6 square miles and hold a population of 200,000. Its site extended nearly to Lake Muggaby.[55] Barth, who visited the site a few decades later, noted its oval shape, its circumference of nearly 6 miles and the palace, which was large but included a seemingly small mosque. He also noticed evidence of artificial basins at Gazargamo and Gambaru.[56] Consequently, long after its fall, the site was still impressive. 

Archaeologists and academics who have visited the site in the 20th and 21st centuries affirm many of the written sources on Gazargamo. Bivar and Shinnie, whose great plan for Gazargamo was first included "Old Kanuri Capitals," described its earthen rampart of 7 meters in height. The distance across the area enclosed was around 2 kilometers.[57] Gronenborn collected oral traditions near the site of Gazargamo which attributed its brick palace to Tripoli craftsmen.[58] In light of the deeper antiquity of brick architecture in Kanem at sites associated with the Sayfawa dynasty, this seems rather unlikely. Graham Connah, for his part, wrote of Gazargamo's site being flat, and around 2 kilometers across. The majority of the residents probably lived in structures of wood, stalk and grass.[59] Magnavita, who focused on the palace structure, found that the palace and its immediate environs covered 100,000 square meters. A base of burned brick 20 m by 20 m was probably a minaret. The palace walls were of 6-10 feet in height.[60] Finally, Lange, who visited the site, noted the high earthen rampart, the rising brick walls of the palace, 7 gates, and that the Komadugu Yobe was visible from the top of the palace walls. The palace complex was likely a number of buildings with brick walls or enclosures.[61] 

A sketch by Gustav Nachtigal of the courtyard of the earthen house he lodged in at Kukawa.

 

Despite modern findings suggesting a smaller population size and perhaps more typical "Sudanic" city, Gazargamo was clearly an impressive site. As brick buildings were usually only built for the mai or prominent dignitaries, like the galadima of Nguru, the palace complex would have been visible from afar and a clear assertion of power. Likewise, the nobility and courtiers were almost entirely based at Gazargamo. Brenner, for instance, found that nearly every person of courtly rank lived at the capital.[62] These elites, or at least those of non-servile origin, would have been part of households with many dependents (wives, children, slaves). Many of them were even awarded chima near the capital with administrative oversight. For example, the fugoma, of slave origin, was the governor of Gazargamo. Another official, the jerma, received an administrative district on the Komadugu Yobe near the capital. The digma, who handled the king's correspondence, had an administrative district around the royal residence.[63] Besides these court officials, many others were based in Gazargamo and received fiefs or administrative districts in the capital province, Gazir. The magirameiram, and other officials would have mainly lived in the capital and employed their subordinates to collect taxes. This could mean large households that boosted the population density of the capital. 

But how did the capital function? What mechanisms were in place to regulate the markets, establish law and order, and maintain the city as a vital economic network? Muhammad Nur Alkali's work highlights officials called jongoma. While the Zanna Arjinoma acted as the go-between for the mai when dealing with North Africans, the jongoma collected taxes from traders. Each trade also had a head of the trade or profession who was responsible to the mala kasuube in charge of the market. Thus, petty traders, butchers, smiths, and others were organized and represented in the market system.[64] The talba functioned as the head of police, providing a measure of law and order in this bustling city.

As was the case in Kukawa in the 19th century, the dendal was probably the place for socializing and for the rare public appearances of the mai. For more private, domestic gatherings, a fage, or enclosed area around a shed functioned as a place for adult men to gather.[65] Wrestling, chess, a variant of mancala, Islamic scholarship and Quranic education, and labor in various arts and crafts must have occupied much of the time of the populace. Moreover, during the dry season, a large influx of people may have come to the capital. Nicholas Said, who left Kukawa when still young, described the city's population as more than doubling in the dry season.[66] If fewer people were preoccupied with agriculture at that time, there may have been larger numbers moving into the capital to sell their wares, shop, or perhaps visit mosques. When one considers the vast hinterland of the Gazir province and its over 30 districts, the capital's metropolitan region may have reached 200,000 people.[67]

Carlos Magnavita's map of the palace complex of Gazargamo from Birni Gazargamo- the early capital of Kanem-Borno.

 

Through this exploration of the history of Birni Gazargamo, it should be clear that Borno's capital was an exceptional Sudanic belt city. Even if the figure of 200,000 is exaggerated and some of the traditional and written sources embellish or contradict each other, the city was undoubtedly the product of Sayfawa exploitation of all available resources. Through favorable geography, trade, textile production, salt trade, trans-Saharan trade, agriculture, herding, fishing, the sponsorship of Islamic centers of learning, and the exploitation of teeming numbers of peasants and slaves, the city grew to be an immense economic powerhouse. In decline even before the rise of the Sokoto Caliphate, Gazargamo fell to the jihadists. Borno never again regained a capital of such economic significance for regional and trans-Saharan trade. Nonetheless, the city was a product of the Sayfawa dynasty's dynamic leadership and shaped the subsequent capital, Kukawa. Many of its features experienced by Barth and Nachtigal were likely, in part, built on the model of Gazargamo. While archaeological evidence for Njimi in Kanem as a vast urban complex is still missing, Gazargamo may have been modeled on the past royal capital in Kanem. If so, then the tradition of urbanism in Kanem-Borno has deep roots reaching back to the late first millennium CE

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[1] For a tentative overview of these traditions see Behique Dunama, “Traditions on the Origins of Birni Gazargamo.” The traditions collected on the cities origins suggest a “Sao” presence while one variant attributes a role to the Tuareg. Some traditions also suggest a Bedde role in the eventual site of the Sayfawa capital. An early “Sao” presence in the area seems very likely while the Tuareg and Bedde claims may reflect later relations with the Sayfawa.

[3] Ibid., 357.

[6] Dierk Lange, Le Dīwān Des Sultans Du (Kānem-)Bornū: Chronologie Et Histoire D'un Royaume Africain (de La Fin Du Xe Siècle Jusqu'à 1808), 74.

[7] H.R. Palmer, Sudanese Memoirs Vol. 2, 86.

[9] J.F.P. Hopkins and Nehemia Levtzion. Corpus of Early Arabic Sources for West African History, 187. Early Arabic sources from the late 1200s demonstrate the interest of the Sayfawa in the region that later became known as Borno, which was already noted to have more fertile land.

[10] Muhammad Bello in Salahudeen Yusuf (trans.), A History of Islam, Scholarship and Revivalism in Western Sudan Being an Annotated Translation with Introduction of Infaqul-Maisur fi Tarikh Bilad al-Tukur of Sultan Muhammad Bello bin Fodio, 71-72, 76.

[11] Moise Landeroin, “Notice historique” in Jean Tilho, Jean, Documents Scientifiques De La Mission Tilho, 355.

[12] Yves Urvoy., "Le Chroniques d'Agadès," 158.

[13] Djibo Hamani, Au Carrefour Du Soudan Et De La Berbérie: Le Sultanat Touareg De L'Ayar, 145.

[14] Gustav Nachtigal, Sahara and Sudan Vol. 2, 255.

[15] Djibo Hamani, Au Carrefour Du Soudan Et De La Berbérie: Le Sultanat Touareg De L'Ayar, 133-134.

[16] H.R. Palmer, “The Kano Chronicle,” 75.

[17] Moise Landeroin, “Notice historique” in Jean Tilho, Jean, Documents Scientifiques De La Mission Tilho, 355. The tale recorded by Landeroin is quite impressive in terms of the amount of power and labor resources available to the Sayfawa mai of the 1400s.

[18] Heinrich Barth, Travels and Discoveries in North and Central Africa: Being a Journal of an Expedition Undertaken Under the Auspices of H.B.M.'s Government in the Years 1849-1855, Vol. 2, 649.

[19] H.R. Palmer, Bornu Sahara and Sudan, 53.

[20] See Yves Urvoy, “Chroniques d'Agadès” for information on the Imikitan Tuareg and the area of Gazargamo.

[21] See Leo Africanus, A geographical historie of Africa, written in Arabicke and Italian by Iohn Leo a More, borne in Granada, and brought vp in Barbarie. Wherein he hath at large described, not onely the qualities, situations, and true distances of the regions, cities, townes, mountaines, riuers, and other places throughout all the north and principall partes of Africa; but also the descents and families of their kings ... gathered partly out of his owne diligent obseruations, and partly out of the ancient records and chronicles of the Arabians and Mores. Before which, out of the best ancient and moderne writers, is prefixed a generall description of Africa, and also a particular treatise of all the maine lands and isles vndescribed by Iohn Leo. ... Translated and collected by Iohn Pory, lately of Goneuill and Caius College in Cambridge. It is likely Leo Africanus did not travel to Borno and relied on secondhand accounts.

[22] Dierk Lange and Silvio Berthoud. "L'intérieur de l'Afrique occidentale d'après Giovanni Lorenzo Anania (XVIe siècle)," 347.

[23] H.R. Palmer, Sudanese Memoirs Vol. 1, 65.

[24] Dierk Lange, A Sudanic Chronicle: The Borno Expeditions of Idrīs Alauma (1564-1576) According to the Account of Aḥmad B. Furṭū : Arabic Text, English Translation, Commentary and Geographical Gazetteer, 72. Of course, the antiquity of the use of brick for elite structures and mosques in Kanem raises the question of earlier brick structures in Gazargamo or other parts of Borno before the reign of Idris b. Ali.

[25] Dierk Lange and Silvio Berthoud. "L'intérieur de l'Afrique occidentale d'après Giovanni Lorenzo Anania (XVIe siècle),"349-351. North African Islamic scholars were welcome in Borno, while “adventurers’ or mercenaries from Ottoman domains appear to have also traveled to Borno.

[26] Muhammad Nur Alkali, Kanem-Borno under the Sayfawa: A Study of the Origin, Growth, and Collapse of a Dynasty (891-1846), 62. Naturally, one must wonder how Alkali reached this figure. Was this based on extensive fieldwork and attempts to match names of places in the capital district mentioned in the 1800s and early 1900s?

[27] Chirurgien esclave. "Passages sur le Borno de l’Histoire chronologique du chirurgien esclave, 1685" in Rémi Dewière, L’esclave, le savant et le sultan Représentations du monde et diplomatie au sultanat du Borno (XVIe-XVIIe siècles), 608.

[28] S.W. Koelle, African Native Literature, or Proverbs, Tales, Fables, & Historical Fragments in the Kanuri or Bornu Language: To Which Are Added a Translation of the Above and a Kanuri-English Vocabulary, 425. For an additional reference to the North African quarter of Gazargamo, see Kyari Tijani, Dynamics of Administrative Change in pre-colonial Borno: A Comparative Study of the Sayfawa and Kanemi Dynasties, 188. An unpublished Arabic text on the Fulani of Borno, Akhbar asl Fullata Barnu, refers to one of the gates of Gazargamo under the name of Wasilaram, suggestive of a North African presence in that section of the capital. Another gate of the capital was perhaps named after its slave market, Cuncunaram.

[29] Chirurgien esclave. "Passages sur le Borno de l’Histoire chronologique du chirurgien esclave, 1685" in Rémi Dewière, L’esclave, le savant et le sultan Représentations du monde et diplomatie au sultanat du Borno (XVIe-XVIIe siècles), 603-604.

[30] J.M. Fremantle, J.M, Gazetteer of Muri Province, 35.

[31] H.R. Palmer, “Two Sudanese Manuscripts of the Seventeenth Century,” 544, 546.

[32] Heinrich Barth, Travels and Discoveries in North and Central Africa: Being a Journal of an Expedition Undertaken Under the Auspices of H.B.M.'s Government in the Years 1849-185, Vol. 4, 23.

[33] H.R. Palmer, “Two Sudanese Manuscripts of the Seventeenth Century,” 547.

[34] Detlef Gronenborn, "Kanem-Borno: a Brief Summary of the History and Archaeology of an Empire in the Central Bilad-el-Sudan," 115.

[35] Dierk Lange, "Un document de la fin du XVIIe siècle sur le commerce transsaharien,” 681.

[36] Hamidu Bobboyi, “The ’Ulama of Borno: A Study of the Relations between Scholars and State under the Sayfawa, 1470-1808, 20.

[37] J.R. Patterson, Kanuri Songs, 17.

[38] Gustav Nachtigal, Sahara and Sudan Vol. 2, 251.

[39] S.W. Koelle, African Native Literature, or Proverbs, Tales, Fables, & Historical Fragments in the Kanuri or Bornu Language: To Which Are Added a Translation of the Above and a Kanuri-English Vocabulary, 278.

[40] Moise Landeroin, “Notice historique” in Jean Tilho, Jean, Documents Scientifiques De La Mission Tilho, 398, 400.

[41] Abú Bekr eṣ ṣiddíḳ. “Routes in North Africa, by Abú Bekr Eṣ Ṣiddíḳ,” 104.

[42] William George Brown, Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798, 467.

[43] August von Einsiedel, “Nachricht von den innern Länder von Afrika, auf einer 1785 nach Tunis unternommenen Reise, aus Berichten der Eingebohrnen gesammelt,” 437.

[44] Paul E. Lovejoy, Salt of the Desert Sun: A History of Salt Production and Trade in the Central Sudan, 229. For a skeptical interpretation of this claim, see Yves Francois, “Ali b. al-Hajj Dunama and the Tuareg: Commerce, Conflict, and the Kawar Salt Trade in 18th Century Borno.”

 

[45] Paul Lucas and John Ledyard, Proceedings of the Association for Promoting the Discovery of the Interior Parts of Africa, 134, 140, 143, 150.

[46] Gustav Nachtigal, Sahara and Sudan Vol. 2, 150, 153, 159.

[47] Ulrich Jasper Seetzen, “Nouveaux Renseignements Sur Le Royaume Ou Empire De Bornou , Recueillis Au Caire,” 168, 175-177.

[48] Dierk Lange, Le Dīwān Des Sultans Du (Kānem-)Bornū: Chronologie Et Histoire D'un Royaume Africain (de La Fin Du Xe Siècle Jusqu'à 1808), 82.

[49] Ulrich Jasper Seetzen, “Nouveaux Renseignements Sur Le Royaume Ou Empire De Bornou , Recueillis Au Caire,” 180.

[50] Michel Étienne Descourtilz, Voyages d'un naturaliste, et ses observations faites sur les trois règnes de la nature, dans plusieurs ports de mer français, en Espagne, au continent de l'Amerique septentrionale, à Saint-Yago de Cuba, et à St.-Domingue, où l'auteur devenu le prisonnier de 40,000 noirs révoltés, et par suite mis en liberté par une colonne de l'armée française, donne des détails circonstanciés sur l'expédition du général Leclerc: dédiés à S. Ex. Mgr. le comte de Lacépède, grand chancelier de la Légion d'Honneur…, 146.

[51] Hamsatu Zanna Laminu,  Scholars and Scholarship in the History of Borno, 12. Although tradition likely exaggerated the number of his students, it does suggest that a substantial number of people lived and visited the sangaya of this illustrious Muslim scholar in 18th century Gazargamo.

[52] S.W. Koelle, Grammar of Bornu or Kanuri Language, vii.

[53] S.W. Koelle, African Native Literature, or Proverbs, Tales, Fables, & Historical Fragments in the Kanuri or Bornu Language: To Which Are Added a Translation of the Above and a Kanuri-English Vocabulary, 321, 420.

[54] Paul Lucas and John Ledyard,  Proceedings of the Association for Promoting the Discovery of the Interior Parts of Africa, 154.

[55] Dixon Denham, Hugh Clapperton, Walter Oudney, and Abraham V. Salamé. Narrative of Travels and Discoveries in Northern and Central Africa: In the Years 1822, 1823, and 1824, 154.

[56] Heinrich Barth, Travels and Discoveries in North and Central Africa: Being a Journal of an Expedition Undertaken Under the Auspices of H.B.M.'s Government in the Years 1849-1855, Vol. 4, 23.

[57] A.D.H. Bivar, and P. L. Shinnie. “Old Kanuri Capitals,” 3.

[58] Detlef Gronenborn, "Kanem-Borno: a Brief Summary of the History and Archaeology of an Empire in the Central Bilad-el-Sudan," 115.

[59] Graham Connah, Three Thousand Years in Africa: Man and His Environment in the Lake Chad Region of Nigeria, 229.

[60] Carlos Magnavita, "Birni Gazargamo - the early capital of Kanem-Borno," 59, 61.

[61] Dierk Lange, A Sudanic Chronicle: The Borno Expeditions of Idrīs Alauma (1564-1576) According to the Account of Aḥmad B. Furṭū : Arabic Text, English Translation, Commentary and Geographical Gazetteer, 115-116.

[62] Louis Brenner, The Shehus of Kukawa: A History of the Al-Kanemi Dynasty of Bornu, 19. See Kyari Tijani, Dynamics of Administrative Change in pre-colonial Borno: A Comparative Study of the Sayfawa and Kanemi Dynasties, 199. According to informants in the area of Gazargamo interviewed by Tijani, "Birnyin talawa ba!" Of course, this could not have been entirely true as the nobility or Sayfawa-era aristocracy required ample numbers of dependents, servants and slaves to support their lifestyle.

[63] Gustav Nachtigal, Sahara and Sudan Vol. 2, 251-253.

[64] Muhammad Nur Alkali, Kanem-Borno under the Sayfawa: A Study of the Origin, Growth, and Collapse of a Dynasty (891-1846), 139, 312. Also see Muhammad Nur Alkali, “Economic Factors in the History of Borno under the Sefuwa," in Studies in the History of Pre-Colonial Borno, 74.

[65] S.W. Koelle, African Native Literature, or Proverbs, Tales, Fables, & Historical Fragments in the Kanuri or Bornu Language: To Which Are Added a Translation of the Above and a Kanuri-English Vocabulary, 287, 404.

[66] Nicolas Said, The Autobiography of Nicholas Said, a Native of Bornou, Eastern Soudan, Central Africa, 13.

[67] S.W. Koelle, Grammar of Bornu or Kanuri Language, vii.

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